LIFE'S A BANQUET!

A Recipe for Riesling, With Love.

2011-09-21T20:15:00.000-04:00

These flavors love riesling.

Fresh, fragrant flavors like fennel and dill are among my favorites to pair with a dry Finger Lakes riesling. They bring out the herbal notes in the wine, highlighting its layers of flavor, so when I saw this recipe on Food & Wine's website I knew that the white wine in question had to be riesling.

Wine-Marinated Lamb Chops with Fennel Salad

It is a straight-forward recipe where the lamb chops are briefly marinated in garlic, lemon zest, fennel stalks and wine, then pan-fried. The bulb of the fennel is thinly sliced and dressed with a simple lemon vinaigrette. I also made garlic mashed potatoes to soak up the delicious pan sauce.

Lamb with white wine may seem an odd combination to some but, in fact, it's an excellent example of the concept of contrast in wine & food matching. It works because the sharp acidity of a crisp wine, such as a dry Finger Lakes riesling, cuts through the richness of the lamb. A wine like this cleanses your palate between bites, preparing it for more rich flavors, heightening them. In this dish, fennel salad serves a similar purpose.

I used local lamb from Windsong Farm in Burdett, along with local garlic and local rieslings, both in the marinade and in my glass. I loved how the fennel stalks and lemon zest were used in the marinade (no waste!), reinforcing the flavors in the fennel salad and the riesling. The garlic mashed potatoes provided a welcome earthiness.

Maybe you're devising your own riesling-friendly meal for Riesling Hour tomorrow evening. (I'd love to hear about it.) I hope you'll at least join me in raising a glass of Finger Lakes riesling. What better way to celebrate all this beautiful region has to offer?

No matter where you are tomorrow evening, open a bottle of your favorite Finger Lakes riesling. (Maybe two, it's hard to pick just one favorite!) Log on to Facebook or Twitter. Share your thoughts (and pictures!) about the wine you're drinking, along with the food and company you're enjoying with it. The best thing about wine is how it can bring people together. Cheers!

Shrimp three ways, with Chardonnay

2010-09-04T11:25:00.000-04:00

For weeks, Pat has been bugging me to cook the shrimp he knew were in the freezer. A Cuban-style Mojo preparation is my go-to for shrimp, but I wanted to do something different. Feeling uninspired, I turned to Tastespotting, as I so often do. I also consulted with my wine-and-food-loving work chums at Lamoreaux Landing Wine Cellars. I came away with so many tempting ideas I couldn't narrow it down to one choice. This, and my never wanting to make things easy for myself, is how shrimp three ways was born. Shrimp cook quickly, so most of the recipes were pretty fast and simple. Certain themes and ingredients came up again and again on my recipe search, so I started to break them down into categories. Balance is the key, and I wanted to include a variety of flavors and cooking techniques. Tied together with a pan of Jiffy cornbread (Pat's favorite) and a bottle of Lamoreaux's fabulous Chardonnay, it was the perfect way to belatedly celebrate our second anniversary together.

The rich flavors in this buttery, beer-boiled preparation highlighted the sweetness of the shrimp. It's a great, roll-up-your-sleeves-and-get-your-hands-in-there kind of dish-- it feels primal, which makes me enjoy the food in a different way. Keep an eye on the timing, though, or the shrimp will get rubbery. Next time I will finish with a dusting of Old Bay.
http://allrecipes.com/Recipe/Beer-Boiled-Shrimp/Detail.aspx

The classic Spanish tapa "Gambas al ajillo" was a delicious way to represent the natural affinity shrimp has with garlic. The only drawback to this simple recipe is that it had to be prepared a la minute. Chopped parsley adds a nice burst of color and a green freshness that contrasts with the sweet, earthy garlic flavors.

Recipe in Spanish: http://www.atapear.com/recetario-de-tapas/gambas-al-ajillo

Bacon-wrapped shrimp sounded like a great idea, which is why I chose this recipe. However, in my kitchen frenzy the bacon burnt to a crisp (I probably should have used thicker bacon.) I went ahead with the marinade, and I was so glad I did. It had a great combination of spices, which I think would work well in many applications, including chicken. I substituted pimenton de la vera for half the paprika in this recipe, which added a smokiness that almost made up for the missing bacon. Grilling the shrimp definitely produced the best texture for my taste-- not to mention the easiest cooking method.
http://cookandbemerry.com/bbq-bacon-wrapped-shrimp/

The variations are endless. These recipes are definitely keepers, but I know I'll be on the look out for other shrimp recipes to mix it up next time. There was no clear favorite. Each of these dishes easily stands on its own and, when served over rice, provided great leftovers for lunch the next day.

Chenin Blanc

2010-08-13T14:37:00.000-04:00

Wednesday night was the third time this tasting group has met, so I thought it was high time I start documenting it, if only for my own reference. The tastings are not only a useful way to hone my wine tasting and writing skills, but a fun way to find new favorite wines and discuss them with some of the most fascinating and knowledgable people in the Finger Lakes wine industry.

We've previously explored Sauvignon Blanc and Syrah/Shiraz. When Morgen, the mastermind behind all this fun and discovery, emailed saying she was arranging for us to taste nine Chenin Blancs from around the world, I was excited because this is a grape I haven't much opportunity to taste. I've heard it called a "winemaker's grape" because of its versatility, much like Chardonnay. It turns out that no one in the group was overly familiar with it. Wikipedia informed us that angelica and greengage were common descriptors of wines made from Chenin Blanc. Well-- at least now we knew what to expect. Above is a shot of the first of three flights we tasted blind.

The first wine was pale straw in color and had lush tropical fruit (lychee?) and pear on the nose, which continued through to a vibrant palate. The mouthfeel was supple with a touch of minerality and a lingering finish. It turned out to be a 81/19 blend of Chenin Blanc and Viognier from California. At $12 a bottle, Robert Parker called this vintage one of the "Top 50 Super Domestic Wine Value." As it turned out, this was my favorite wine of the evening. This doesn't seem fair, considering my love for Viognier may have something to do with it.

Pine Ridge (California)

2008 Chenin Blanc-Viognier
12.8% ABV

$12

The screwcap on this next wine gave it away as from the New World. It was very similar in color, but smelled like smoke. Actually, I think rubber tires is a more accurate descriptor, but not something I could identify it until the discussion. Canned pears on the palate. The smoothness and sweetness (despite little residual sugar) made us suspect some malolactic fermentation. There was something distinctly Chardonnay-like about it. The finish was short-- clean and mineral, coming back full circle to the rubber tires in the nose.

Indaba (South Africa)

2009 Chenin Blanc

13.5% ABV

The flight finished with another wine of the same pale yellow color. There was beeswax and vanilla on the nose. The palate offered bright fruit (pear and fig) with some sweetness and a touch of funk (quinine?) that made us suspect an older vintage (which didn't end up being the case.) The rich honeyed finish suggested the Old World. Upon reflection and revisitation, this was my favorite Chenin of the tasting.

Francois Pinon (Vouvray)

2008

13% ABV

$20

The Toms examine a bottle from the second flight, perhaps noticing that all the wines from this flight had screwtop closures.

A strong whiff of acetone was my first impression of this first wine. There were fruit flavors on the palate, but generic, and a short, steely finish. The consensus was that this had been a wine that required a lot of tinkering with in the cellar.

Robertson Winery

2009 Chenin Blanc

13% ABV

I got toast and something green on the nose of this second wine, others got the rubber that I need to get better at identifying. My first sip was slightly effervescent on the palate. It reminded me of Chardonnay, which made me wonder if there had been some light oak treatment (apparently not.) There were also similarities to Sauvignon Blanc, boxwood and steamed broccoli. Removing the brown bag revealed the much-recommended, lauded and anticipated Estate Bottled Paumanok, from our fellow New York State winemakers on Long Island.

Paumanok (North Fork)
2008 Chenin Blanc

12% ABV

$28

The next wine is the only one I didn't get a photo of: Very floral and overripe on the nose-- rose petals-- a creamy mouthfeel and flavors of honey yellow apple. Some might call this wine flabby, and the finish acrid.

Man Vinters (South Africa)

2009 Chenin Blanc

13.5 % ABV

Flight three, wine one: Light yellow in color with vinegar on the nose which blew off to reveal honey and baked apple or pear. This wine was much sweeter on the palate than I expected, but balanced with a nice acidity. Ripe starfruit and (once someone said it, it was all I could taste) canned mandarin oranges.

Francois Chidaine (Montlouis Sur Loire)

2005 Les Tuffeaux

$28

The next wine was very pale with citrus and floral notes both on the nose and the palate. Lean and acidic, there was also iced tea on the palate and a mineral finish. The screwtop closure suggested a New World wine, but much to our surprise, we were wrong.

Monmoussau (Vouvray)

2008

$14

Aaron can't believe it.

The next wine had a deep golden color. The nose was very honeyed, with late harvest characteristics and some oxidation. More honey, dried fig and papaya on the palate. It was a dessert Chenin Blanc, and a delightful end to the evening.

Le Haut-Lieu (Vouvray)

2003 Moelleux

Premiere Trie

$79

Actually, Antoinette's Tomato & Goat Cheese Tart, along with the many other goodies, everyone brought along, were the delightful end to the evening.

See you all after harvest!

Picadas

2010-05-17T18:55:00.002-04:00

To say people eat dinner late in Argentina is an understatement. We were often the first ones at a restaurant at 9pm. Most days we ended up making lunch our main meal, and then have some bar snacks with our drinks in the evening, as we did on the night we arrived in Buenos Aires. Picadas are generally served on a rustic wooden board, and can be made up of a variety of delicacies such as cheeses, cured meats, olives, nuts...the sky is the limit, really.

The ingredients on the board pictured were all smoked, an excellent complement to an earthy Malbec. It came with wonderful, fresh rolls, and baba ganoush, an inspired addition. Did I mention that this picada for two, on special with an enjoyable table wine, came to less than U$15 in one of Mendoza's posh districts near the Park Hyatt?

The influence of the traditions of Italian antipasto, Spanish tapas and French making-a-meal-out-of-delicious-nibbly-things is clear. These foods go with wine naturally, each item interplaying with the wine in it's own way. This is what pairing should be: spontaneous, casual and integral to enjoying both the food and wine, not over-analyzed and pretentious (though sometimes I do like over-analyzing it myself!) I love eating this way. It feels so civilized.

Every bar we went to brought you a salty snack: peanuts, potato chips or palitos (cracker sticks). No one would presume to ask you to enjoy a drink without something to graze on.

Now, I have a confession to make: Argentina is a place you go to for excellent, reasonably-priced red wines, but it was so hot for most of time that we were there, the local beer (the malty Quilmes in most of the country and our favorite beer of the trip, the crisper Andes in Mendoza) was more refreshing. I also understood why my Oma speaks so nostalgically about Campari & soda (served in a siphon), for which I've inherited her affinity.

We still drank our fair share of wine as well.

Wine Blogging Wednesday: Gamay

2010-04-21T20:14:00.005-04:00

2007 Gamay
Sheldrake Point
(Finger Lakes)
"An Estate wine produced entirely from Gamay Noir grapes grown in two blocks (about 3.3 acres) in our 44-acre vineyard located on the west shore of Cayuga Lake.
On October 5, 2007 5 tons of grapes were hand-harvested (22 Brix, 8.2 g/L Ta, 3.29 pH) then crushed and de-stemmed into a stainless steel tank. The wine was fermented on the skins (RB-2 yeast) with daily pump-overs. The fermentation temperature peaked at 91F.
The Gamay was pressed after seven days on the skins then racked into older, neutral French and American barrels. Malolactic fermentation finished by November 20, 2007. The Gamay spent six months in neutral barrels."

     I chilled the wine slightly for my first tasting last night, as this is how I understand it is traditionally served. This wine is ruby-colored, a beautiful, clear jewel-tone of medium intensity. The nose is floral, with aromas of white flowers, iris and violet which opened into red fruits, specifically red currant, with a hint of vanilla. The wine is light-bodied and dry with a tart acidity, which dominates the palate. There are notes of pomegranate, cranberry and under-ripe plum, with strawberry on the finish. More aromas and flavors were evident as the wine warmed up. I suspect the acidity of the wine would make it very food-friendly, so I am going to serve it with dinner tonight and see how that goes.

     The wine benefited from being open for a day, even though I Vacvin-ed it. Even served slightly chilled, it was more open and the red fruits much more evident on the nose. The acidity seemed to have mellowed, displaying softer cherry and (ripe) plum flavors with some nice, light spice reminiscent on the sandalwood on back of the palate.

     The wine was pleasant with the hodge-podge we had for dinner tonight: a little homemade margherita pizza made with some leftover whole wheat dough to start, and as well as the grilled mushrooms on the side. (I thought this would be good since the Gamay grape is related to Pinot Noir.) The best pairing was the roast pork slices that we warmed through on the grill. The fruit forwardness in this Gamay complemented the pork, and the acidity valiantly cut through the fattiness.

Thanks to http://drinkwhatyoulike.wordpress.com!

As Argentine as Maté

2010-04-18T08:40:00.002-04:00

As if our day at the cataratas hadn't provided us with enough adventure, we had a particularly eventful bus trip to Buenos Aires. Our bus left Puerto Igauzu around three p.m. The highways was being blocked by a group of maté growers, or materos, protesting unfair compensation. The price of maté to the consumer had increased, but the producers weren't seeing any of that money. This is similar to what is happening with milk prices in the US, greatly effecting the dairy farms in central New York, where I live, and putting many of them out of business. When I asked our bus driver why we were stopped, he blamer it one diez perejiles locos. While I can't translate this comment and retain the nuance, it literally means "ten crazy parsleys."

Maté is a vital part of Argentine daily life (as well as Uruguayan, Paraguayan and Chilean) and national identity, especially in the northeastern province of Misiones where the bulk of it is grown. It is traditionally drunk out a gourd, dried and hollowed out, through a bombilla (left), a metal straw with a strainer at the bottom to keep you from sucking up the leaves, is a social event. The maté (the gourd itself) is filled with yerba (pictured below, the dried leaves from a plant related to the holly family), top it with almost boiling water from a kettle or thermos, drink, refill with water before passing it to the next person. The drink is bitter, so many people ad sugar until they develop a taste for it.

The traditional gaucho (Argentine cowboy) is often pictured with maté in hand, and for a time drinking maté was seen as old-fashioned and fuddy duddy. In the past decade or two it had been re-embraced by the young people, becoming popular with students. What better way to keep yourself awake while finishing that big paper or design project? An afternoon catching up with friends is undoubtedly spent matéando (Yes, the ritual of drinking of maté is so important as to merit its own verb) while munching on agridules (square little crackers whose flavor is a moreish combination of savory and sweet), perhaps followed by coffee and facturas. People fill up their thermoses at gas stations on long road trips, and families tote their maté and bombilla, along with a day's supply of yerba and hot water in specially designed carriers with them on the beach. You can even buy a disposable kit, in case you forget your own. (pictured above)

It got dark during the five hours we were stopped. Luckily, the beautiful, cloudless January afternoon turned into a warm, breezy evening. The bus drivers and passengers, alike, stood around smoking and drinking maté. Time wore on, the massive cue grew longer and thermoses were drained. The taxi driver ahead of us went on a mission, loaded down with thermoses, and returned to a big round of applause. He taxi driver had saved the day, and matéando continued!

Crisis averted.

Iguazu Falls

2010-04-14T17:33:00.003-04:00

A pot of chicken stock sits simmering on my stovetop. As I lift the lid to check its progress and inhale the wonderful aroma, the steam transports me to the hot and humid day three months ago when we visited Iguazu Falls. Here I am on the walkway approaching the Garganta del Diablo (Devil's Throat, the largest of the falls at Iguazu.) See the mist in the background?

Near the spot where Argentina, Brasil and Paraguay all meet, this natural wonder is one of my favorite places in the world. When I first visited in August 2001, I never dreamt I would get to come back. I was spending that semester studying in Buenos Aires, and went to the Cataratas (falls) with several other exchange students from the US and Europe for a long weekend to see what all the fuss was about. I was completely overwhelmed and took at least six rolls of film trying, in vain, to capture the beauty and the scale of this place.

In the summer of 2008, just before I came to the Finger Lakes for my cheese apprenticeship, I came back to Argentina with my mom and brothers. My mom had not been to Iguazu since she was 14, and was impressed at all the improvements to the park, including this trencito (little train) that takes visitors to the Garganta del Diablo. The national park provides excellent infrastructure to allow guests a phenomenal experience of the falls.

This winter, I got to share this magical place with Patrick. We arrived early in the morning after the 18 hour overnight bus ride from Bs As, checked our luggage at the bus station and caught the next local bus to paradise. Exhausted and running on adrenaline, we explored the park. I could never get tired of it.

There are lots of opportunities to spot wildlife, some shy and others not. There was a reptile on the side of one of the walkways that I would never have seen, had there not been a crowd gathering to look at and photograph it.

The coatís (long-nosed relatives of the raccoon) had all just had babies, and the park was overrun with them. We even witnessed one greedy coatí snatch a sandwich right off a picnic table. Clever little creatures!

That evening we rested a bit at our charming and comfortable hostel, Timbo Posada, then went in search of more wildlife, namely the fish native to the Parana and Iguazu Rivers. The main drag of Puerto Iguazu is made up of a lot of touristy souvenir shops and restaurants, but dinner on the terrace of La Esquina on that balmy night was a romantic and memorable meal. The dishes were well thought out, the portions generous and presented with real pride.

Pat's surubí steamed in banana leaves came whimsically presented as sushi. The fish was similar in texture and flavor to catfish, which it is related to. The sauteed zucchini and peppers, both in and under the roll rounded out the dish nicely.

The fish I ordered, pacú, is a relative of the piranha. It was served with sauteed mushroom, onions and basil. I will have to try this surprising combination of earthy and fresh, green flavors at home. It worked beautifully.

¡Hasta la proxima, Iguazu!

See you next time!

By The Sea: San Clemente

2010-03-12T12:42:00.001-05:00

The Río de la Plata meets the Atlantic Ocean near the charming beach town of San Clemente del Tuyú, where we spent a long weekend at the shore surrounded by vacationing Argentine families. The oppressive heat of Buenos Aires was more bearable with an ocean breeze, though both were preferable to the arctic winter we left behind.

It was no surprise that the fish couldn't be fresher at San Clemente's port, where we had a particularly memorable meal.

We were greeted by a pair of empanadas fritas (fried) filled with lisa, which my Food & Wine Dictionary by Dan Perlman translates as mullet. Despite speaking Spanish fluently, this book was a handy resource for this sort of vocabulary.

The first order of business was to obtain a cold bottle of wine. It's not uncommon for Argentines to put ice in their vino de mesa, both red and white. I have to admit the heat warrants it (but wouldn't advise it for anything nicer than a table wine.) Vasco Viejo is Bodega Lopez's dependable table wine and always a winner at a reasonable price (about US$3 in a supermarket, and usually US$5-7 in restaurants). This refreshing white blend features Torrontes and Chardonnay grapes.

We ordered the lisa, of course, a la provencal. The classic porteño provencal sauce is a rustic mixture of olive oil, garlic and parsley, that I also love on french fries.

The simplicity of the preparation on the grill really made the fresh fish shine. I'll have to give this method a go this summer, maybe with some local lake trout.

Starting at the beginning: Breakfast in Buenos Aires

2010-03-10T12:34:00.002-05:00

The sun rising over the Atlantic in San Clemente del Tuyú, Argentina.

We're back from South America, and since I wasn't able to keep up the blog from down there, I have returned with notebooks full and thousands of photos to share with you. I am quite overwhelmed by this. Rodgers & Hammerstein's sage advice urges me on, though, so I have decided a very good place to start is "at the very beginning.)

Pictured above is the intersection of Piedras and Carlos Calvo in Buenos Aires, where we began the South American leg of our adventure. The pink building on the right is the friendly corner cafe where we had our cafe con leche y medialunas every morning the first week, and several times before departing. My mind reels at the amount of medialunas that must be made and consumed on a daily basis in Buenos Aires. These sweet, buttery pastries are the staple of the Porteño breakfast and usually served by twos or threes with a cup of strong coffee mixed with steaming milk (for the bargain price of between 2 and 4 US dollars). You could also order your coffee cortado (with just a bit of milk) or just ask for an espresso. The huge Italian influence in Bs As almost guarantees that the coffee will be fresh, potent and delicious.

Medialunas are just a subset of the myriad of facturas (pastries) available. The flaky pastry is made even more delicious with the addition of dulce de leche, membrillo or crema pastelera, or any combination of these.

If you get bored with facturas, or fancy something savory and a little more substantial, order a tostado. This toasted ham and cheese sandwich on pan de miga (delicate white bread with no crusts) is also a great afternoon snack with an espresso.

If coffee isn't your thing, you can have a submarino, steamed milk served with a chocolate bar (not always submarine shaped) for you to stir in for a first class hot chocolate.

Special thanks to my hand model, Carmel.

Mi Buenos Aires Delicioso

2010-01-13T09:26:00.000-05:00

We flew into Ezeiza early Tuesday morning and took the Tienda Leon shuttle into the centro, where we were then taken to the apartment we've rented for the week. We weren't scheduled to meet the landlord for another two and a half hours, so we planted ourselves at the corner cafe and enjoyed a leisurely breakfast of café con leche and medialunas. This Argentine classic has already become a favorite of Pat's.

After sorting everything out with the apartment and wandering around the city a bit, showing Pat some of my old haunts, we took a break from the heat at Cumaná, one of my favorite places in Buenos Aires to get a bite to eat. Have I mentioned how beautiful and sunny it is here? What a welcome escape from winter in Seneca Couty! We shared a pizza de palmitos, and Pat tried his first Quilmes.
Later that evening, we set out to get a drink and explore San Telmo, the neighborhood where we are staying. Time Out recommended Bar El Federal as a historic porteño hang out. I was dubious as to how authentic it would be, but since it's only a couple blocks away we figured we'd give it a shot. We sat at the bar, although we should have snagged a table outside when we arrived early. It quickly filled up with natives and tourists alike. First we ordered a bottle of Etchart Privado Torrontes, which used to be a favorite. I visited their winery in Cafayate, Salta when I was in Argentina in 2001. I found it to be a bit too sweet for me now, but by the time we finished the bottle we decided that we liked the place and would stay for another. This time a bottle of red, Lopez from 2007. It was a wonderful compliment to the mini picada we ordered: three cheeses (roquefort, goat y de campo), salame de campo, liverwurst and green olives stuffed with walnuts.It was hearty but smooth, a great example of what I love in a Malbec. We didn't think we were that hungry, but after watching the bar man prepare them with such pride I couldn't help myself.

Mini picada: Three cheeses (roquefort, goat y queso de campo),

salame de campo, liverwurst and green olives stuffed with walnuts

Everything was so flavorful, and complemented each other well-- so civilized! Later we had a bottle of Ricon Famoso 2004, blend from Bodegas Lopez featuring Sangenovese, Merlot and Malbec grapes. This wine was smoother and lighter than the younger Malbec. The flavors were more subtle, which made for an interesting comparison particularly with the pairing of the picadas. The grand total for this wonderful evening came to 95 Argentine pesos, less than U$30 at the current exchange rate. What a glorious welcome to Buenos Aires!

The Shack, Colonial Heights, TN

2009-12-29T22:49:00.003-05:00

After a long drive through Virginia today, Patrick and I checked into a motel and went in search of dinner. We were almost ready to settle for Perkins or Arby's when we spotted The Shack BBQ & Grill tucked in the back of a shopping center.

How could we miss it with a sign like this?

We decided to give it a shot. Somewhere between seeing the "Biker Night, Every Thursday" sign in the window and smelling the intoxicating aroma when we walked into the door, we knew we had made the right choice. After all, we should take a refresher course in American BBQ before our master class in asado.

We grabbed a couple seats at the bar and ordered two drafts while we looked at the menu. Everything sounded good, but we ended up agreeing to split a rack of ribs.

The service was friendly, and the room was fairly small but had plenty of character. You could imagine many a wild night being had here. Too bad it was a Tuesday.

The barbeque feast for two arrived: the ribs came with fries, coleslaw, baked beans and garlic toast. As you can see from the photo, the ribs had less barbeque sauce than I am used to. It didn't take me long to realize why. These ribs were the real deal. They didn't need the sauce. They had been cooked low and slow, exactly how they should be, the meat literally falling of the bone and absolutely delicious. Pat proclaimed them the best ribs he's had in a very long time.

This was more than either of us were planning on eating, but we couldn't resist. The fries were crisp, the coleslaw was creamy and the beans were deliciously rich and molasses-y. A beer was just the thing to wash it down. Another great find!

Nam Viet, Arlington, VA

2009-12-29T21:49:00.001-05:00

Vietnamese food is one of my favorites, and I wanted to get my fix before heading down to Argentina. After some research online, my brother found a great restaurant near him, Nam Viet in Arlington, VA. He and I had a wonderful meal there with Pat and my dad. We started the evening with a round of Vietnamese beer, 33.

I ordered Canh Chua Ca, Spicy Sweet and Sour Salmon Soup, a big bowl full of bean sprouts, shredded cabbage, grape tomatoes, mushrooms and pineapples topped with several chunks of very nice salmon in a tangy tamarind broth. This light, fresh meal was the perfect antidote to heavy holiday eating.

Pat chose one of the specials, a Spicy Lemongrass Shrimp, which was very good. He says, "the sauce made it."

My brother and dad ordered orange beef and chicken (Bo Cam and Ga Cam), respectively. Each was lightly floured and sauteed, not greasy at all, with a delightful citrus sauce.

Nam Viet was exactly what I was hoping for, at a very reasonable price, and my brother was glad to discover such a gem nearby.

A Flight of Rieslings Around The World: Tasting Notes & Reflection

2009-12-17T14:42:00.000-05:00

The idea started when Kathy and I were wondering how Finger Lakes Rieslings compare with the traditional German ones. We should taste them and find out! Of course, it snowballed from there, and food pairings and Rieslings from other regions in the New World. We finally got together and had the event. We went a little overboard with both food and wine ("Doesn't make you a bad girl," as Pat would say), so it was a little overwhelming. Not only did we learn about the different Rieslings, but we enjoyed them.

We found the German Rieslings overall had a rich texture and relatively full body. Kathy did a great job picking out three bottles with different levels of sweetness. Honey was the flavor that stood out, to varying degrees in each. There were also the classic apple and pear flavors, more in baked or dried forms than fresh. However, all three German wines were well balanced.

The 2005 Peter Mertes Privatkelleri Spätlese (sweet, late harvest) was the prime example of this: very golden in color, creamy in texture and sweet honey and fruit on the tongue, but with a comparably clean finish. It paired surprisingly well with many of the foods, particularly the apple and onion sausages.

The 2008 Pölka Dot Riesling (semi-dry/semi-sweet) was a lighter, more lively (if less complex) take on these flavors. Honey and baked apple were still prominent. It reminded us a bit of Lamoreaux's Semi-Dry Riesling. It is clear from the flashy, contemporary look of the bottle that this wine is designed to be a crowd pleaser, and it was exactly that. It turned out to be one of the favorites of the evening. This wine is ideal for quaffing, but also paired nicely with the foods we sampled it with.

The 2007 Franz Wilh. Langguth Erben Kabinett (dry) was a delicate, "calm" wine. The dry, freshness worked with the cheeses, particularly the brie, and was a pleasant palate cleanser between tastes. However, it's mild flavors were easily overpowered by most of the food pairings.

The 2007 Snap Dragon Riesling (semi-dry/semi-sweet) from California fell somewhere between the Old and New World wines, and shared many qualities with the Pölka Dot (comparable sweetness.) This must be the type of Rieslings being made for the American market. There were strong honey notes on the nose, though less on the palate with a slight spiciness on the finish. It paired well with foods as diverse as wasabi peas to sweet potato gratinée.

2008 Chateau Ste Michelle Riesling (dry) from Washington's Columbia Valley had a delightful effervescence and crisp notes of citrus and perhaps honeydew. This dry Riesling was also great with the cheeses. I especially liked it with the Raclette.

While I lived in London, I developed a strong affinity for the wine from New Zealand, so I really wanted to include one in this tasting. I searched high and low, and was thrilled to find the 2007 Kim Crawford Dry Riesling. It was quite bracing and austere, with a crisp minerality (almost a bit briny) and flavors of lime and all things green, but little of the fruit we noticed in the other Rieslings. The best pairing was with the (green) wasabi peas, and I bet it would be a great wine with sushi (or oysters!)

Of course we were already familiar with the Finger Lakes Rieslings, but it was interesting to have them as a basis for comparison. Standing Stone's 2008 Riesling was awarded 89 points in Wine Spectators, and I had a bottle leftover from Thanksgiving (when everyone decided to drink red.) It was most similar to the Washington and New Zealand wines, light and crisp. It was slightly effervescent and had notably more fruit flavors (apple, pear, citrus.)

The Pear & Fennel Flatbread was designed by Red Newt's Deb Whiting to pair the 2008 Lamoreaux Landing Red Oak Vineyard Riesling. It was a good pairing, but the peppery arugula overpowered the wine a bit. I think I just put too much on. Next time, I'll use milder, baby arugula. After tasting Rieslings from around the world and coming back home to the Finger Lakes, I tasted this wine with a new palate and persepctive. This wine, made from the first harvest from these particular vines, is light and friendly. Lush flavors of apple and pear stand out, with notes of honey, as a nod to the grape's German roots.

The evening was rounded out with a special treat: apple turnovers with 2007 Lamoreaux Landing Riesling Ice, perhaps the best pairing of all-- but how could you go wrong?

We look forward to doing tasting evenings like this again, exploring other regions and varietals. I learned a lot from putting together this evening. In future, we will stick to fewer wines (3-5). This will make it easier to keep track of each one, and to keep them colder (if necessary). Having a dedicated glass for each wine will also help with this, as will place mats giving the particulars of each wine. To better evaluate the wines and their food pairings, we have to give the evening more structure. (Not arriving hungry and thirsty is a good start!) First, all the wines should be tasted on their own. Then the food is introduced slowly, allowing for each wine to be sampled with each dish. This will also keep us from predetermining which wine we think should go with the food, and allow for those wonderfully delicious surprises. What fun!

A Flight of Rieslings Around The World: Menu

2009-12-15T15:39:00.001-05:00

2007 Franz Wilh. Langguth Erben Kabinett (Germany)

2008 Pölka Dot Riesling (Riesling, Pfalz)

2005 Spätlese (Germany, Rheinhessen)

2007 Kim Crawford Dry Riesling (New Zealand, Marlborough)

2007 Snap Dragon Riesling (USA, California)

2008 Chateau Ste Michelle Riesling (USA, Washington, Columbia Valley)

2008 Lamoreaux Landing Red Oak Vineyard Riesling
(USA, New York, Finger Lakes)

2008 Standing Stone Riesling (USA, New York, Finger Lakes)

2007 Lamoreaux Landing Riesling Ice (USA, New York, Finger Lakes)

Wasabi Peas

Goldfish

Wine crackers

Pear, Fennel & Arugula Flatbread

Cheeseboard

Triple Crême Goat Brie (Canada)

Uniekaas Reserve Gouda (Holland)

Emmi Raclette (Switzerland)

Manchego (Spain)

Apple Slices

Almonds & Walnuts

Stoneground Wheat & Water Crackers

Crusty Bread

Apple & Onion Sausages with Riesling Mustard

Seared Scallops

Sweet Potato Gratinee

Thai Pumpkin Curry

Apple Turnovers

Coffee

Harvest 2009

2009-12-10T10:12:00.000-05:00

Autumn on Seneca Lake.

Cabernet Franc Grapes

Hard at work in the cellar.

Pinot Noir grapes sit on their skins.

Halloween antics in the cellar.

Soup of the Week: Mushroom Barley

2009-12-09T11:19:00.001-05:00

In honor of the first morning of the year that I woke up to snow, I'm digging out my notes on a wonderfully warming soup: Mushroom Barley. Earlier this season, I came down with a nasty cold. The worst part was that I could barely taste anything for over a week. I can't tell you how devastated I was. Part of this hearty soup's appeal is the variety of texture. You won't be surprise to learn that the recipe I used as a guide was from Barbara Kafka's Soup, a way of life. The first step is to pour boiling water over 3-4 dried porcini mushrooms (dried shitakes would also work) in a small bowl, cover and set aside to soak for about 20 minutes. The porcini, with their soaking liquid, a cup of pearl barley and a couple ribs of chopped celery were covered with water (about 8 cups), brought to a boil and simmered for 30 minutes.

Soup is a great way to clear out your crisper drawer. You could add bits of any vegetable that needs to be used up to this soup, and I bet it would just add to its wholesome, comforting deliciousness. I've discovered some great combinations this way. The "No Shopping Challenge" has made me more conscious of not wasting food, and I have been enjoying the creativity and efficiency it inspires. I was sorry that I didn't have a carrot to include in this soup, though. It would have added a nice sweetness.

While the barley was simmering, I chopped the whites of two leeks in place of onions, sauteeing them in butter until soft. Next I sliced up an entire 24 ounce package of mushrooms, stems and all. Presliced mushrooms are widely available, but I prefer to buy them whole. This gives me a chance to practice my knife skills. I also love the purple-y, brownish grey color just above the mushroom's gills that is revealed with each slice. The mushrooms, once sliced, were added to the leeks and cooking continued another 5 minutes.

Another great thing about this particular soup is that you don't need stock. I used water, or Kafka has a recipe for a Mushroom Broth you can make for a richer soup. Once the barley is cooked, combine the two mixtures and simmer for another 10 to 15 minutes. Taste and season as desired. A splash of soy sauce added to your bowl just before eating is a nice addition.

A week with no shopping: Inspiration & Innovation

2009-12-07T08:54:00.002-05:00

I have extended this challenge for myself beyond the initial week. I did shop for Thanksgiving, and was successful sticking to a specific list. We have also bought necessary perishables (ie milk), but the bulk of our meals have been clearing out the fridge, freezer and pantry. What a lot of food I have accumulated since we moved in June! This challenge has put me in a frugal, efficient mindset, and the limitations have inspired me.

Last week, we were eating Thanksgiving leftovers like everyone else, but our surplus was pork. On Wednesday, I made an abundant batch of silky pork stock. For dinner, I turned it into Hot & Sour soup accompanied by pork, scallion & ginger potstickers. We do have frozen potstickers from Trader Joe's in the freezer, but I made the filling for these myself, wrapping them wonton wrappers that I've had in the freezer for ages.
I used Barbara Kafka's recipe for Hot & Sour soup, and the first night I was disappointed with the result. I was surprised about this because her book Soup, a way of life is one of my favorites. I was relieved the next day when the leftovers were wonderful. Now I know to make this soup a day ahead.

Thursday, I warmed some shredded pork in a saute pan and added a small tin of green hatch chiles (Trader Joe's). Then I stirred in a tablespoon or two of flour and some milk to make a white sauce, not forgetting plenty of shredded cheese. We had this in corn tortillas as a lovely, light dinner. The next morning, I fried two eggs and ate them with this pork and green chile mixture and a warmed tortilla. Wonderful as well. Sorry, no photos. It's not the most picturesque meal, but it doesn't make it any less tasty.

The success of Thursday's meal and an open package of tortillas unfinished led me to create a variation on Friday. No more green chiles, so I used chipotles in adobo. I always have a couple cans of these smoked jalapeños in my pantry. I love the concentrated flavor kick they give this sort of dish, or to a vegetable soup. Only one pepper is necessary with a spoonful or two of adobo sauce. I chopped up the pepper (maybe I should have deseeded it) and mixed it in with the pork. At this point, I felt the mixture needed more moisture, as well as something to dilute the spice a bit. I wanted to do something different from the previous day's white sauce. The pork was also starting to stick to the pan a bit. When Pat does the dishes, he often teases that I should be a chemist at a glue factory because he doesn't know how I make everything stick so well to the pan. Wanting to avoid further taunting, I searched for something to deglaze the pan. This is when I saw the magnum of Malbec (Marcus James) amongst our stock of everyday wines. This wine is bold enough to stand up to the spicy pepper, and has an earthy character that will complement the smokiness. I couldn't believe how well this combination worked, though the mixture was still too spicy when served in a corn tortilla. Adding sour cream and shredded cheese helped some, as did heating up a can of refried beans to serve plain on the side, but I think it would be best served it over rice.
I want to explore the connection of Malbec and chipotle though. There's something good here. Hooray!

Thanksgiving 2009

2009-12-03T14:05:00.005-05:00

I present you an account of our decadent Thanksgiving feast.

For those of you brave and/or curious enough to see how the suckling pig was prepared, scroll down to the post after this one. For those of you who don't care to see those photos, you have been warned!

The first course, cream of chestnut soup, was a big hit. Chestnuts have a sweet, intoxicating (and very seasonal) flavor that was unfamiliar to most of my guests. I actually ended up using very little cream to finish this dish, since the chestnuts bring a richness all of their own. My inspiration for this course came from a sketch of a recipe Lynne Rossetto Kasper shared on The Splendid Table

podcast. The soup is a lovely light brown color, served with crumbled roasted chestnuts and a squeeze of lemon.

Here's a plateful of the main course with all the accompaniments: (clockwise from the left) slices of pork, red onion and kidney stuffing, salad, walnut bread with butter and mashed squash bake.

This has been my favorite salad this autumn. It's just delightful. The baby spinach and arugula are fresh and green and the pears, which are right in season, are extra sweet once they've been roasted.

The walnuts are spiced with the flavors we love at this time of year: cinnamon, nutmeg, clove, allspice. They have a great tannic quality that picks up on the bitterness in the greens. Sherry vinaigrette is usually my favorite, but balsamic works really well with this combination of flavors.
I made a single portion of maple glazed salmon (Gourmet, November 1997) for a friend who joined us, though she doesn't eat pork.

The maple glaze, which featured ginger, lemon and soy flavors, could luckily be made ahead, so I prepared it on Wednesday. I thought the maple flavor would help it tie in with the seasonal sides. On Thursday, after the soup course, all I had to do was brush the salmon with it, put it on the cedar plank (which I've had in my pantry and been looking for an excuse to use) along with a bunch of scallion greens. and stick the whole thing in the (already hot) oven. I think Pat was disappointed he didn't get any, but I will definitely hold on to this recipe to make for dinner someday.

I wanted to serve something green in addition to the salad, and this recipe in November's bon appetit caught my eye. I substituted broccoli for the broccolini, out of necessity. It's fresh flavors with a Spanish influence contrasted beautifully with the traditional, autumnal flavors in the other dishes: intoxicating, brassy garlic, smoky pimenton and the brightness of sherry vinegar. (You should have known that I would get it in there somewhere!)

Unfortunately, no photos of the desserts, but they were delicious: pumpkin cheesecake, gingerbread pear cobbler and Pat's famous brownies.

Happy Thanksgiving to one and all!

Farm to Table: Suckling Pig

2009-12-03T14:04:00.002-05:00

Wednesday morning we went to Autumn's Harvest Farm to pick up the suckling pig for our Thanksgiving feast. I had ordered it a month or so prior, and Tim from Autumn's Harvest was very helpful guiding me in what size pig I needed for our group, etc. It was so nice to finally meet him in person. He explained that the pig had grown a winter coat which was more difficult to take off, but for the most part the skin was hairless and the stray hairs didn't cause any problem in the eating.

We brought Pat's jumbo beer cooler (holds 72 cans) with a bag of ice to transport it, but we didn't really need it. The animal, weighing in at an estimated 13 lbs., was slightly frozen from hanging in the cooler overnight, and wrapped in several large plastic bags. Upon getting it home, I let it sit out to thaw before rubbing the whole thing down with generous amounts of olive oil, coarse salt and freshly ground pepper. I was relieved to see that it was going to fit (just fit) into the aluminum roasting pan I bought for the purpose, although we had to tie the legs together with hemp cord to get them to stay in the pan.

Into the downstairs fridge he went for the night. Before going to bed, I made the stuffing so it would be ready and cooled for the next day. I was following Fergus Henderson's guidelines for roasting the suckling pig, as well as the advice of this excellent blog, so I made the stuffing Henderson suggested. I sliced two huge red onions that I got from the Amish and softened them in some olive oil (This was supposed to be duck fat, but...don't make me go in to it.) Next I added a healthy amount of red wine and allowed this all to cook down. Then I chopped and added the pig's kidneys to the mixture, as well as chunks of day old bread. This was an ideal use for the leftover crostini I had in the freezer. At the last minute, I added some chopped fresh sage and garlic. This stuffing was tasty, but came out a bit soggy when cooked inside the animal. It definitely benefited from all those delicious, piggy cooking juices though. Maybe stuffing is just one of those things that is always better the next day.

There turned out to be just the right amount of stuffing. My costuming experience came in handy here (and no, I didn't use a glue gun.) On Thanksgiving morn, I filled the cavity and sewed it up with some hemp cord and a needle meant for repairing sails. The needle was straight, but the point was shaped like a talon and sharp, which made it perfect for getting through the flesh.

The recipe recommended covering the trotters and the ears with foil to prevent burning. I was planning on sticking an apple in his mouth, but it wouldn't budge. Then the pig went into the oven set to to 320°F.

He still had trouble sitting up and preferred lying on his side, so after two hours (pictured at right) I had to flip him. At this point, I noticed his snout was getting brown, so I covered it with some foil as well. I also turned the oven down to 300°F, which is where I suspect it should have been all along. The house sure smelled good!

The pig ended up cooking for just under five hours. It was hard to find a place that was not near a bone to take the internal temperature. When I did, it was higher than the desired 160°F, but the meat was still very moist, tender and flavorful.

Carving it proved to be a unique challenge, especially since the usual cuts were so small and close together. Also, Pat said that the bones were so soft that his electric carving knife went right through them, but the skin was a bit tough and crunchy (yum!) We end up with plenty of nice bits to go around.

Yes, I would do it again!

Thanksgiving Menu

2009-11-25T23:15:00.001-05:00

Local Fruit Wines: Montezuma "Cranberry Bog" & Goose Watch "Barlett Pear"
Crackers, olives and other assorted nibbles

Roasted Chestnut Soup

Roasted Suckling Pig
Red Onion & Kidney Stuffing
Maple Glazed Salmon (pork alternative for one guest)
Baby Spinach & Arugula Salad with Roasted Red Anjou Pears & Spiced Walnuts
Squash dish (made by a friend)
Broccoli Sauteed with Almonds & Pimenton
Walnut Bread served with Jersey Butter

Paired with
Standing Stone 2008 Riesling (off dry)
Vertical Tasting of Lamoreaux Landing Merlots (2005, 2006 & 2007)

Pumpkin Cheesecake
Gingerbread Pear Cobbler
Brownies (made by Pat)
Maple Walnut & French Vanilla Ice Creams

Thankgiving Prep

2009-11-25T13:38:00.002-05:00

My kitchen is a flurry of activity today. So much to get ready for tomorrow's feast!

The faint of heart, be warned. Photos of my ingredients follow, including the star of the meal, a suckling pig. (Nothing graphic, just food looking like what it is.)

There are chestnuts and pear chunks roasting in the oven, with spiced walnuts on deck.

Aperitifs and white wines for dinner are in the wine cooler, chilling. The serving china has been washed, the soup bowls are drying in the strainer, and the rest of the dishes will be done in turn.

Walnut bread rising.

This morning we went to Autumn's Harvest Farm to pick up the pig.

The pig froze a little in the cooler last night, so I am letting it thaw a bit before rubbing it down with olive oil, salt and pepper. Then it will rest in the fridge until tomorrow morning.

Later today I will make the base for the chestnut soup (everything but the cream, which I will add when I warm it prior to serving.) The gingerbread cobbler needs to be made this afternoon as well.

What am I doing writing a post on the blog? Back to the kitchen with me!

Challenge Update: A week with no shopping

2009-11-22T20:58:00.003-05:00

Tuesday
This morning, we ended up having to go into the big city (a/k/a Ithaca), so breakfast out (again) and quite filling it was.
Pat had a bowl of the white bean and chorizo soup as a snack in the afternoon.
I simmered a stock of leftover beef bones (ribs, both short and long), along with some veg scraps from the freezer (chard stems and leek greens.) I hope to make some French Onion soup on Saturday night, as I will have had a very long day at work. Onions have become like gold. I am fairly stocked, but not as well as I thought. I don't think I realised how many onions I go through. Maybe I give some thought to sources.
Dinner as inspired by Molly Wizenberg's article and recipe on kale in October's Bon Appetit. I followed the recipe-- braising half a bunch of kale left from this weekend's decor-fest with onion and plenty of garlic. It took much less than the suggested 20 minutes, despite having added watr. I deglazed with some Sauv Blanc that got left open last night, and crumbled in two Gianelli's hot Italian sausage patties (who have been sequestered in our downstairs freezer from the grillin' days of summer.) In the meantime, I boiled water for the orphaned pastas in my lazy susan pantry: 1/3 box rotini, 1/3 box of ditalini, a handful of linguini (ok, I'm holding on to some of this for later this week.) The pasta was then tossed into the kale and sausage mixture, and served with some freshly grated parm and a squeeze of lemon. Really delicious, and will be repeated even when I can shop! (I'd like to experiment with frozen spinach, but suspect the texture won't be nearly as good.)

We've learned: kale + sausage (Hot Italian, Chorizo...) + something starchy (beans, pasta)= Success.

Wednesday
I'm discovering that week will hardly put a dent in our stash. We could probably live on lentils for a week, if necessary (and we've only lived in the house since late June!) I will keep it going as long as I can, allowing for purchases of necessary perishables, as well as everything for Thanksgiving.

I must confess, Reverend Mother, Patrick bought milk today (mainly for coffee, though I will use it for cooking as necessary,) and a Hershey bar that he had for lunch (despite there being delicious leftovers in the fridge.)

We both had store brand Cheerios for breakfast today, which I later supplemented with cardomom glazed carrots & parsnips and gorgonzola polenta leftover from the Winemaker's Dinner I worked at last week. (These were side dishes to some amazing braised short ribs, also from Autumn's Harvest. Sam Izzo is a genius!) I may try to recreate this polenta for Christmas. It was beautiful.

I found a dying cauliflower in the back of my fridge, which I had been meaning to roast. Unfortunately, no time for that today, so I made a big batch of Curried Cauilflower soup. I foolishly added too much water, but in a blaze of inspiration I added the pureed root veg leftover from Sunday's braised ribs. This is the sort of creativity I was hoping this challenge would bring forth.
Both are good, so the combo shouldn't be bad. I'll have a bowl for dinner, topped with a dollop of yogurt, and pasta/sausage/kale leftover from last night. Pat is having the one remaining rib and maybe some soup as well.

I am working all day tomorrow, so we'll see how I do under those circumstances. I am defrosting some lump crabmeat that my mum sent up from Maryland.

Thursday
This challenge is already starting to effect the way I think. Today, I decided to stop agonizing over what wine to buy for Thanksgiving. There are several choices amongst the collection of bottles that I hoard that will be splendid. After all, isn't this one of those special occasions I've been saving them for?

I needed a greasy breakfast today: a hot italian sausage patty (must use them up now that I've defrosted the pack!) and a couple fried eggs. (Gosh, the eggs are running low!)

I took leftovers to work: kale & sausage pasta and some cauliflower, etc. soup. Crabcakes tonight!

I'd had a pound of lump crab mead from MD in my fridge since late August. I put it in the fridge to defrost since last night, and it still wasn't close to defrosted when I got home from work today. I was hesitant to defrost in the microwave, but determined to have the crab cakes tonight. I zapped it in 20 sec intervals and after a minute or so, it was thawed enough to squeeze out and mix with the seasonings. No visible harm done to the meat-- phew! (I used the Chesepeake Crab Cake recipe on the Old Bay website. It worked very well.) I served the cakes on a bed of romaine. The lemon vinaigrette used up a half of lemon in my fridge, but was a little too oily. Will work on the balance.
I missed with the beautiful, buttery Chardonnay I paired with this dish. We would have been better off with a nice, crisp (dry) Riesling. That'll teach me to second guess Dornenburg & Page.

Friday
For breakfast I made biscuits and sausage gravy, to use up the rest of the package of sausage patties I opened earlier this week. I've never made this at home, but often order it when we go out for breakfast. Quite successful, considering. Delicious fresh biscuits made from scratch with hot sausage gravy over top, and there's enough for tomorrow morning too. Yay!

Lunch was a little of this and that: a couple leftover empanadas and leftover white bean, kale and chorizo soup.

In the meantime, I went rummaging in our shed to get out the china for Thanksgiving. Our dishes all used to be Pat's mother's. There is a blue willow style pattern, which we use daily, and a pink one that has been packed away. Pat said the pink set would be appropriate for Thanksgiving, as it depicts scenes from American history. What a treasure! They are so charming, and there is such a great variety. I was thinking I might have to buy some serving dishes for the side dishes on Thanksgiving, but this give me an abundance to work with-- and all matching! Hurray for no shopping!

For dinner we had a package of frozen mussels that I found hiding in the freezer. The flavor is nowhere good as fresh, but I bought two packages cheap as an experiment so these had to get eaten! I steamed them with chorizo, onions and a splash of Gewurztraminer, and served with a biscuit to soak up the tasty juice.

Before going to sleep, I sliced 3 small onions from the precious store, tossed with some olive oil, dried thyme, s&p and a splash of Gewurztraminer, and popped them into the crockpot to caramelize overnight.

Saturday
I started the the day with a healthy serving of biscuits & sausage gravy, and steam some basmati rice to take to work and have with some of the curried cauliflower, etc. soup. I also have made a salad from some fading Napa cabbage and leftover sesame/soy dressing. This should do for lunch both Saturday & Sunday.

It was great to come home after a long day and know I was only minutes away from a great meal. I had made the stock and caramelized the onions ahead of time, so I just warmed these in a sauce pan with a glug of port.

There was a some crabmeat left from the other night, so I shaped it into little crab cakes to serve as appitizer and broiled this for a couple minutes. These wouldn't hold together, so I decided to toss the crab into a salad with romaine hearts and leftover lemon vinaigrette (with extra lemon added.) This turned out to be the ideal counterpart to the soup.

There were lots of crostini leftover from my mom's birthday party the other week, which I froze and will be happy to have in the next couple weeks. A couple of these crostini were used as croutons for the French Onion soup.

Next I set out to clean out the cheese drawer in my fridge. Very little gruyere, and lots of pieces from Cowlick, our friend Andy's farm (yes-- THAT cheese farm.) Patrick, my faithful sous chef, grated an assortment of these until we had the right amount for two crockfuls of bubbly soup and cheese.

Having decided on the wines for Thanksgiving, I also decided I had to try a bottle of Lamoreaux 2005 Merlot to make sure it hadn't completely gone off the edge. It was a delightful pairing with the soup, with lots of nice berry flavours. It may be slightly past its peak, but still a great wine. Looking forward to the vertical tasting with the Thanksgiving feast.

What a satisfying, boost of a meal!

Challenge: A week with no shopping

2009-11-17T08:38:00.002-05:00

I have a pantry, fridge and freezer full of food, yet always come up with something I need to run to town to get. I've read about this challenge on other blogs and always thought it made a lot of sense.
Limitations always bring out creativity. It's especially relevant to us right now because (A) we want to save as much money as possible for our upcoming trip, (B) we don't want to leave food to rot or get stale while we are away for 2+ months, and (C) my temp job finished last week, so I could use a project.

As luck would have it, my compatriots on the eGullet message board decided to repeat this challenge this very week, so I will have some company and support on the journey. I know I waste food, and this week I will attempt to be more mindful about it.

Sunday
Brunch: Sportsman's Club Fundraiser
Dinner: Beef Back Ribs Two Ways

Monday
Breakfast: Out and about
Lunch: Leftover ribs, romaine heart salad with dill-mustard vinaigrette from recesses of the fridge

For dinner tonight, we had a white bean, kale and chorizo soup.
The chorizo is from an excellent local farm (Autumn's Harvest), and has been in my freezer since the farmer's market in September/October. I sauteed this with some garlic, then added some shredded kale (some was used this weekend for decoration at a Harvest Dinner I worked at)
and two cans of cannellini beans from my pantry. No stock necessary, just filled up with some water and simmered for half an hour to glorious results. I love this sort of recipes, simple but so delicious. I shaved parmesean over the top to serve. So glad there are leftovers. I bet it will be even better tomorrow.

Tarte Tatin

2009-11-13T10:07:00.002-05:00

It's a good thing I picked up a cast iron pan in time for apple season. I've been taking full advantage of both. Inspired by Alice Waters' The Art of Simple Food: Notes, Lessons, and Recipes from a Delicious Revolution (and how can you not be?), I decided to give Tarte Tatin a whirl. Not only that, but I made my own pie crust, after years of buying them frozen.

What took me so long?

This dessert is simple, as Waters promises, and simultaneously rustic and elegant. It celebrates wholesome, delicious ingredients without complication:

Pie Crust (Homemade or store bought)

2-3 Apples (I used local Tompkins King apples.)

Butter, 2 Tbsp.

Sugar, 6 Tbsp.

First, I prepared an entire recipe of Waters' "Tart & Pie Dough" from earlier in the book, refrigerating one half for the Tarte Tatin and freezing the other half for next time. (It ended up making the trip to Maryland in my cooler for the Tarte Tatin I made for my apple loving brother.)

Peel and core apples. Slice into thin segments (eights or sixteenths). It is important that they are as uniform as possible.

Oven preheated to 400°F. Butter and sugar combined in a 9-inch cast iron pan over medium heat. Stir until caramelized, careful not to burn! Remove the pan from heat. My caramel making skills need a lot of work, mainly because it involves paying careful attention and not getting distracted. This is a great example of how cooking can make me a better person. The promise of delicious, unburned caramel may be just the incentive I need to train myself.

Arrange apple slices perpendicular to the outside edge of the pan, pointy sides up. Make another ring inside that one. Then fill these rings in, pointy sides down this time, nestled between the first set of rings. Fill in gaps with smaller pieces. Lay pastry over the apples, tucking it between the apples and the pan.

Bake 30-40 minutes. Give the pan a gentle shake when you take it out of the oven, to loosen the apples. Put the serving plate face down over the pan and flip over. Gently lift the pan off. Serve with vanilla ice cream, yogurt, whipped cream, or just naked. Delicious warm or at room temp. Delightful with ice wine.

This is how I made my Tarte Tatin, but this narrative is no substitute for Waters' eloquent description of her method in The Art of Simple Food. I highly recommend checking the book out, particularly the practical and poetic piece on "Rolling Out Tart Dough," which was a revelation.

Birthday Party

2009-11-12T09:54:00.006-05:00

Last week, I drove down to Maryland to surprise my mom for her 60th birthday. My brothers and I agreed about a month ago that we should do something special for her. As so often happens with anything involving me and event planning, the whole thing snowballed into an open house with everyone we could think of invited.

I cooked as much as possible ahead of time and took it down with me in a cooler. (empanada fillings, cheesecake) I also arrived armed with ingredients and spices that I didn't want to be missing or have to run out to buy if there wasn't any in my parents' house. (I didn't expect them not to have onions.) I made good time driving and made the caponata that afternoon. The next day, I baked the chocolate cake, and drafted my Oma into helping me assemble the empanadas. I was glad we had the frozen tapas (empanada dough) because we ended up making 120 of them!

The day of the party, I laid out serving dishes and the like. I was running around like a chicken with my head cut off, trying to avoid my mom's questions. (We tried to keep it a bit of a surprise, but she could tell by the amount of food that it wasn't going to be just a "family dinner" as we had told her.)

Prunes & Bacon, Nora's Classic Hors D'Oeuvre

Finger Lakes Cheese Board
Cowlick Farm Raw Jersey Milk Cheeses
Lively Run Goat Farm Chevre, plain and herbs de provence
Tompkins King Apple Slices
Assorted crackers

Caponata with crostini

Aunt Loreen's Tortilla Dip with chips
(mandatory at any family function)

Aunt Patricia's sandwiches de miga

Empanadas
Carne-- Ground beef with hard boilded eggs, green olives and raisins
Barbeque-- Pulled pork with Dinosaur BBQ's Roasted Garlic & Honey Sauce
Humita-- Corn with roasted red peppers in a white sauce
Calabaza-- Maple roasted butternut and acorn squashes, mashed with cinnamon and nutmeg

Chef Karl's Protein Platter (my youngest brother's contribution)
(Bite sized pieces to be eaten with toothpicks)
Pork Tenderloin * Petite Filet of Beef * Another cut of beef, which escapes me at the moment * Argentine Chorizo

Served with trio of sauces
Demi Glace * Chimichurri * Spicy Citrus

Salads
"Queen of Our Hearts" salad
Hearts of Romaine & Hearts of Palm with salsa golf (Thousand Island dressing)
Baby Spinach & Arugula salad
with roasted pears and spiced walnuts, served with balsamic vinagrette

Wine
Beer
Mulled Cider, with rum to spike (if desired)

Dessert
NY Style Cheesecake
Chocolate Cappuccino Torte
served with vanilla & coffee ice creams

photo courtesy Cristina Green

The empanadas were the most popular item. The pulled pork being the favorite filling. I thought it turned out too salty, but apparently it wasn't too bad! We could have made twice as many and they would have been happily eaten. Warming them up was a bit of a hassle, since I had hostessing duties as well. Luckily, my Tante Rita (mom's sister visiting from California) took this over for a time.

I had printed up a menu, to cut up and make labels with, but this only got done for the empanadas.
Each different filling had a different closure, so I could tell which was which, but that didn't help anyone else. I didn't want to tackily stick the papers on the serving dishes and I couldn't come up with better at the time. Next time I do a party with this sort of set up, especially with this number of people (about 60 in the end, way more than the house was ever intended to hold!), I will find a way to do labels. Small picture frames would be nice.

Also, I should have done a lot more pre-cutting of cheese and putting caponata on crostini, not leaving this for people to do themselves. I think alot more would have been eaten this way. Live and learn!

In the end, it was a very successful event. People seemed to be having a good time, and I don't think anyone went home hungry. Most importantly, my mom had a ball seeing all the familiar, loving faces there to celebrate her.

Soup of the Week: Curried Cauliflower

2009-10-27T20:05:00.005-04:00

I like to make a big batch of soup on the weekend, and then have it in the fridge to take it to work for lunch or an easy weeknight dinner. (Hence, soup of the week.) I earmarked this recipe from eGullet ages ago. On the Sunday evening when I finally got around to making it, we each had a bowl for dinner. The spices gave the soup a pleasant warmth, but didn't overpower the mild taste of the cauliflower. The coriander chutney provides a delightful contrast, rounding out the flavors in the soup with a bright note. I might not make it if I were in a hurry or short ingredients, but it certainly makes a lovely addition.

It was so tasty (and guiltless to boot!) that I helped myself to another serving as we watched a movie. Before I knew it, the pot was nearly empty. Luckily, I had bought a monster of a cauliflower to make this soup, so I had plenty left over to make another batch!

Thanks to Natashya at Living in the Kitchen with Puppies for sharing this recipe, and writing an inspriational blog with such beautiful photos! (I can only aspire to her presentation skills!)

The basic method is similar to the way I like to make squash soup this time of year. In fact, it's a great and simple way to make a flavorful soup. It would also work well with any root vegetable, or combination thereof. Apples or pears contribute a nice sweetness. You can also vary the seasonings.

Roast vegetables tossed in with several cloves of garlic and seasonings until soft and golden. Allow to simmer until the vegetables are soft.

Puree with a stick blender to desired consistency. You can leave some chunky, or add milk for a creamier soup. (It depends on my mood.) Ladle into a bowl and garnish. Enjoy!

Apple Gingerbread Cobbler

2009-10-25T09:58:00.001-04:00

Apple season has inspired me to bake, but I don't have huge amounts of time on my hands. I wanted something fairly simple to throw together, and I also kept thinking about that cobbler that I had at the Red Newt. The gingerbread topping would work well with apples too. A search through cookbooks, magazines and internet yielded this recipe for Apple-Gingerbread Cobbler. A historic recipe that has stood the test of time, I will definitely make this cobbler again. Next time I will pump up all the spices, just because we prefer more gingery bread.
This cobbler is simple enough to make as the finish for a weeknight meal. Once the apples have been prepared, toss with lemon and sugar, place into baking dish and put in a hot oven (450) to bake while you are making the topping (about 15 minutes). The topping comes together like a cake, with dry ingredients sifted together, then mixed into the wet ones. Pull the apples out of the oven (turn it down to 350) and pour the batter over the top. Then return the baking dish to the oven for 40-50 minutes. Serve warm with vanilla ice cream.

The gingerbread topping is moist and spongy and the apples are a lovely complement, almost coming as a surprise as you dig in. (Next time, I might also increase the amount of apples to batter, but the gingerbread is so good that it can work either way.) This was a delicious treat for my co-workers at the winery after a busy October Saturday, our busiest time of year.

Soup of the Week: French Onion

2009-10-16T09:36:00.000-04:00

When I lived in Manhattan, I often ordered French onion soup as a late night snack at a diner or bistro and justified paying five or six dollars for it by telling myself it wasn't the type of thing you could make at home. In Paris, I ordered it everywhere I ate, savoring each variation. It is a perfect light meal during the week, especially when rounded out by a nice salad and a glass of red wine. We recently enjoyed this soup with this delightful Bordeaux blend (pictured at right). The French are great at making easy drinking table wines, and this one is a prime example, dry and subtle, and a bargain at $14 per magnum.

Last winter I started a project to demystifying French Onion soup, so I could make it for myself (and maybe a lucky friend or two) just how I wanted, whenever I wanted. I bought myself some oven proof crocks and read up on all the different recipes out there. The soup that I make right now is based on Anthony Bourdain's recipe from Les Halles.

Not a lot of fancy ingredients are required to make French onion soup. That is one of the things I love about it: onions, stock, bread, cheese and seasonings. Blissfully simple!

I usually splurge on a nice cheese, since you don't use a whole lot of it and I feel that it makes a big difference. Gruyere is my favorite so far, but you can really use whichever cheese (or blend of cheeses) you like, or have in the fridge. Swiss, provolone, mozzarella, gouda...the sky's the limit!

This dish does require patience. I've broken it down in my head to several steps, which gives me more flexibility and allows me to make this wonderful soup more often:

Caramelized onions. Our friend, Frankie, gave us some of his country bacon. I couldn't bring myself to waste the bacon grease that was left over after cooking it, so I sliced up some onions and let them cook in the grease at a low heat. This is the first place patience comes in. It can take some time for onions to get as rich, brown and melty as you want them. Watch them carefully because you don't want the onions to burn. The process is very satisfying, and smells just wonderful, but I don't always have the time to do it.

Luckily, I have learned that you can caramelize onions in a crock pot. It usually takes 10-12 onions, sliced, to fill my crockpot, which I then drizzle generously with olive oil (sometimes I use a knob of butter as well, or instead) and sprinkle the top with dried thyme and maybe throw in a bay leaf. This doesn't achieve exactly the same result as caramelizing in a pan, but it saves a lot of time. The caramelized onions keep well in the fridge. I've also read that you can freeze them, but I haven't tried that yet (ie I always eat them all before they get to the freezer.) There are lots of other excellent uses for caramelized onions, such as a topping for a burger or steak or in an omelette.

Once the onions are caramelized (or onions that you've pre-caramelized are warmed though), you can add a splash of port, sherry, balsamic vinegar, red wine, white wine, or any combination thereof. (Maybe a some of what you're planning to serve with the soup, or some of what you've been drinking while you caramelize the onions.) Recipes vary here, so it's up to you. For me, it depends on my mood and the levels of the bottles in my cupboard.

Stock. Next, add the stock to the pan with the onions. Simmer the stock with the onions to allow the flavors to concentrate, tasting as you go. Ladle soup into oven proof crocks. Put a slice of toasted bread and some cheese at the bottom of the the bowl before adding the soup for a great extra surprise.
Both beef and chicken stock (or a combination of the two) work well in this soup. Stock does merit (and will get) its own post(s), but long story short: the better the stock, the better the soup. This rule especially applies with French Onion. Making stock also takes patience, but there really is no substitute. You can make your stock ahead of time and keep it in the fridge, or freeze it, so it's ready when you want to make the soup. Your crockpot can also come in handy preparing the stock.

Assembling the soup. First, preheat your broiler. Slice up a baguette or whatever bread you'd like, toast one slice per serving and float on the soup in the crock. This is an excellent use for day old bread. I had great success once using a leftover olive roll. Grate the cheese, and generously top the crouton with this. Make sure to sprinkle some over the edge. It will form a tasty crust on the crock. The crouton and cheese make this soup. I can't think of another dish where the garnish is so important, but I do know that melted cheese makes anything taste better.

Place the crocks on a baking sheet and broil on high for a 5-7 minutes, keeping a close eye. By this time, your house will smell delicious and you'll be getting your spoon ready to dig in.

Allow to cool before devouring.

The Red Newt Bistro

2009-10-15T22:05:00.002-04:00

The first time I tasted Red Newt's 2005 Cab Franc was about a year ago. There were undeniable notes of chocolate on the nose, and upon tasting the wine, said chocolate just washed over you. I ordered it eagerly when we went to dinner at The Red Newt Bistro. It was pleasant enough, but not the ecstasy I remembered. I'm afraid this wine has come and gone, which particularly disappoints me because I have two bottles at home. Such is the game we play when we save wine, hoping it will improve. This didn't spoil our dining experience.

It was a Thursday night (Half Price Wine!), and we sat at the bar. (I apologize for the poor quality of the photos in this post. The lighting was low, and I was trying to be subtle.) The server was warm and knowledgeable. The roll they brought us (baked in-house, I'm sure) to munch on while looking at the menu, with some olive oil for dipping, was a nice touch. I chose the White Lasagna for which Chef Deb Whiting is locally renowned. The menu describes it as "layers of seasonal vegetables, organic spinach, ricotta cheese, roasted garlic cream sauce." It was a delicious, creamy dish that epitomized comfort food.

Pat had the Beef Tenderloin Tips, which came with woodland mushrooms, onions, bordelaise sauce served over basmati rice. This was a beautifully seasoned, simple dish that we'd both recommend.

Dinner was flavorful enough to entice us into ordering dessert to share. There were lots of good choices, but the plum cobbler stood out. It's interesting that, despite my sincere love of all things chocolate, at restaurants most of the time I will choose fruit-based desserts.
This was obviously the right choice. The gingerbread that topped this cobbler was an inspried complement to the plums, and a lovely end to a lovely meal. The Red Newt has a reputation around here as being snooty and expensive. Our experience there was anything but. The meal was a good value for well thought out dishes made with quality, local ingredients. We'll go back, and I look forward to a special occasion when I can splurge on the Chef's Menu with the wine pairings.

Yes, I CAN!

2009-10-15T09:29:00.007-04:00

At the peak of tomato season, I made some roasted tomato salsa that came out with a little too much of a kick for general consumption. I could have roasted some more tomatoes, or added some fresh tomatoes to the mix, but decided on peaches instead. Their sweetness turned out to be just the thing to balance the smoky heat from the chipotles in adobo. The combination is moreish, and I'd love to be able to eat it all year long.

I'd been reading up on home food preservation, and picking the brains of my friends-who-can for advice. With windowsills full of tomatoes and 12 plants still producing, this was a perfect opportunity to give it a shot. I carefully followed the steps laid out in the Ball Complete Guide to Home Preserving, constantly cross-referencing the manual to my pressure cooker. Canning can go very wrong, and one doesn't want to risk any contamination.

Once the jars and lids were prepared, I set up a one person assembly line prepping the ingredients. An assortment of Romas, Early Girls and Cherry Tomatoes from my garden were cored and quartered, then roasted with red onion and garlic. A peck of peaches (from Indian Creek Farms in Ithaca) were blanched, peeled and cut into chunks. A big bunch of cilantro was roughly chopped. A chipotle pepper was taken out of it's tin, deseeded and pureed with a cup or so worth of the roasted tomato mixture. If you're sensitive to the pepper heat, start with half a chipotle and go from there. I like to add a spoonful or so of the adobo sauce for extra smokiness. The remaining roasted tomatoes, onions and garlic are cut into pieces and added to the puree, along with the peach chunks and cilantro. Tortilla chips were handy for tasting all along. Once the proper balance was achieved, the salsa then went into the jars.
I bought my pressure cooker for fifty cents from a neighbor that Pat's known for ages who was moving, complete with the weight and owner's manual. This method of canning feels safer, because of the high temperatures reached while processing. Using it for the first time was a little scary.

Luckily, Patrick's mother (also know as Cook Cook) canned all the time when he was growing up, so he was able to reassure me that all those noises were normal.

I haven't opened any of the jars yet, but there they are in my pantry, vacuums holding tight, promising to bring a little summer warmth to the central New York winter.

Soup of the Week: Lentil with Swiss Chard

2009-10-12T22:07:00.001-04:00

In order to properly celebrate soup season, I bought myself a new stockpot. It's stainless steel with a "good mild-steel sandwich on the bottom," as specified by Barbara Kafka in her Soup, a way of life. What better to way to christen my new toy than to experiment with a new recipe from the soup maven: chard and lentil soup.
I was inspired by a particularly beautiful bunch of ruby chard at Countryside Produce, a wonderful local Amish shop where I get lots of great ingredients. (I'd share their website, but...)

The seasonings harmonized well, none belting out above the choir (even the often overpowering cilantro and cumin.) This is a wonderful, hearty soup to stock in the freezer or take to the office for lunch. The consistency was so thick, in fact, that I added water when I heated up individual servings. It also worked nicely as a bed for the other two smoked pork chops that Frankie gave us.

Lentil is a staple in my soup rotation, and I was very much looking forward to the first batch of the season. It's always fun to find variations on a much loved theme, and this wholesome soup has earned a place in my heart.

Thank you, Ms. Kafka, my sister in soup, for another wonderful recipe!

Littletree Orchards

2009-10-09T12:31:00.006-04:00

A sunny day was forecast amid the rain, so we took advantage of it by going apple picking. The rolling hills south of Ithaca were bright with color. We haven't seen as much change in the leaves in Lodi yet but, as Pat pointed out, we are closer to the lake. (This is an interesting illustration of the microclimate created by Seneca and Cayuga Lakes.)

I liked the laid back atmosphere at Littletree Orchards right away. There were fresh cider donuts and apple cider, hot or cold, available self-serve in the barn. We had a look at the map of the orchard and headed out with a couple 1/2 bushel bags in hand.

The brisk day was perfect for a walk amongst the apple trees. The first tree we reached was a McIntosh. I picked one to munch along the way. Lovely sweet flavor with plenty of crunch.

Check out the nest (above) I spotted in one of the trees. Those smart birds must be living like kings!

It was interesting to see the so many varieties of apples available. It seemed that we had arrived a little late in the season, but I also overheard that this year's crop was a fairly small one. I didn't end up pick a whole lot, but it sure put me the mood to bake. You'll be sure to be reading about it soon.

Northern Spys (below) are said to be great for making hard cider.

The Asian pears (below) were crisp and juicy, but on the small side.

This is a great field trip for children of all ages!

Smoked Pork Chops with Fresh Peach Chutney

2009-10-09T09:25:00.000-04:00

      Pat and I celebrated the change of seasons with this meal, a serendipitous combination of summer and fall ingredients. Harvest is upon us. The Finger Lakes grapes are being picked and crushed. Our friend, Frankie, had his pig slaughtered, and he shared a couple smoked pork chops and some country bacon with us. I was eager to taste them.

   Despite the change of weather and appetites, my garden is still producing tomatoes, and even provided a couple nasturtiums to brighten the plate. A quick Google gave me ideas on putting together a chutney to smother the chops with, using up the last of the summer's peaches. In a small saucepan on low to medium heat, I melted brown sugar in apple cider vinegar. Then, I added grated ginger and carefully minced hot pepper (courtesy of our friend Fred's garden), tasting all the while to test for balance of flavors. Next, I tossed in half a handful of raisins, which soon plumped up. Lastly, I stirred in chunks of peeled peaches. The chutney was then simmered until it reached the desired consistency, and allowed to cool to room temperature before spooning over the meat.

      Frankie's instructions regarding the pork chops were: put these in a pan with some water and a little butter. They are already cooked (via smoking) so they just have to be warmed through. The truly wonderful thing about this pork is that has no water added. This provides a superior texture and flavor to the meat. It also doesn't hurt to know that the pig was raised down the road, fattened on kitchen scraps and garden refuse.

We paired the meal with one of my favorite wines of the summer, Lamoreaux Landing's 2008 Red Oak Vineyard Riesling. All the grapes in this wine come from a four acre vineyard in southern Seneca County. The vines in this parcel are very young and 2008 was the first harvest from the Red Oak Vineyard. The result was an off dry riesling, which is incredibly fragrant on the nose with nice orchard fruit and honeysuckle notes. (Yes, I have my tasting room speech down. What can I say? I work at Lamoreaux because I love the wine.)
    We are squeezing the last drops out of summer, but welcome the coziness and spice that fall promises.

Soup of the week: Fish Chowder

2009-10-01T12:31:00.000-04:00

The first day of Autumn was chilly. I knew I was coming down with something because all I could think about all day was soup. Luckily, I had the rest of the haddock in the fridge that needed to be used. This chowder hit the spot. Jasper White calls this recipe the most authentic in his book 50 Chowders: One-Pot Meals -- Clam, Corn & Beyond. It tasted just like I wanted a New England Fish Chowdah to taste, and was even better the next day. Salt pork can easily replaced with bacon. I used whole milk instead of cream for a lighter soup and was pleased with the results.

The recipe suggested garnishing with fresh snipped chives. I wanted to add a little kick to the mild, smooth soup and complement the fish, so I sprinkled mine with Old Bay. You can take the girl out of Maryland....

Bringing Jean Georges home

2009-09-28T19:40:00.000-04:00

The sweet and sour jus served with the snapper at Jean Georges bewitched me. I couldn't get it out of my head. Aside from butter, I couldn't put my finger on the ingredients I was tasting. I only knew the rich combination of flavors was intoxicating. Of course, upon reading the recipe the secret ingredient was obvious-- mushrooms!

I was mainly interested in recreating the sauce, so I decided to concentrate on that, leaving the nut and seed crusting for next time. The trick was browning the butter slowly. Next time, I'll clarify the butter and keep a closer eye on it so it doesn't go quite so brown.

This is a totally different type of cooking from what I'm used to, giving you less freedom to multitask and requiring more careful attention to each step. It is an useful exercise in timing and discipline. I used sherry vinegar in place of the Banyuls vinegar. For the summer vegetables which swim in the buttery sauce, I used the last few cherry tomatoes from my garden, along with baby red potatoes and yellow pearl onions for some variety of color. (The mushrooms that were strained out of the sauce made an awesome addition to my scrambled eggs the next morning.)

I wasn't thrilled with the red snapper at Wegman's that day, so I chose some much nicer looking haddock fillets which were a couple dollars less per pound, which I pan fried simply and served over top.

The flavor was as I remembered it. Patrick and I enjoyed it outside (while we can!), watching another one of Seneca Lake's legendary sunsets. We paired it with a bottle of Lamoreaux Landing's 2007 Reserve Chardonnay, a beautiful complement. Butter all around!

Lunch at Jean Georges

2009-09-24T16:08:00.000-04:00

When my farmer and I went to gawk at the big city last week, I had to get in some of Manhattan's special brand of fancy eatin' . This is not a decision I took lightly. Pat teased me as I read dozens of menus, discussion boards and reviews online. After debating with my NY restaurant guru friend, Robert, I decided that we couldn't go wrong with the prix fixe lunch at Jean Georges. Robert made a reservation for Wednesday at 12:15, and we were ready to go.

I got increasingly excited as the day approached, so of course we arrived downtown extra early. It didn't hurt that the train nearest to the flat where we were staying was the A, which goes express from 125th to 59th street. The weather cooperated beautifully the first couple days of our trip, but Wednesday was more of a day to stay inside. After a brisk, touristy walk along the bottom of Central Park (dodging all the offers of carriage rides), we ducked into the Time Warner Center. There I introduced Pat to Whole Foods and Williams-Sonoma; it was a day full of firsts for him. We still had about 20 minutes to kill, so we sat down at the bar at Cafe Bouchon and enjoyed a glass of prosecco overlooking Columbus Circle.

Finally at noon we walked over to Trump Tower. After checking in with the hostess, we were taken to a lovely table in the center of the room, which was filled with natural light because of the ceiling to floor windows. The staff made us feel welcome from the moment we arrived. The decor was neutral, whites and greys set off by dark wood and merlot-colored flowers arranged simply on the tables. Robert arrived shortly after we did, and we each ordered a glass of sparkling wine from Napa, Domaine Carneros. The wine list was an impressive volume bound in leather. Our bubbly was a nice golden sparkler with brassy fruit flavors to sip on whilst taking in the room and contemplating the menu.

The server talked us through the menu, highlighting some of the most popular dishes along with his favorites, assuring us that it was nearly impossible to go wrong. After much discussion and agonizing, we ordered our lunches and a bottle of sparkling wine to share (Albert Boxler, Alsace). This turned out to be a perfect choice, a virtually clear sparkling Riesling that was crisp and clean on the palate and really allowed each dish to shine.

The chef welcomed us with a trio of amuse bouche, which gave a brilliant idea of what we had in store. What a lovely custom! It was a delightful contrast of flavors, textures and temperatures: sashimi of madai, a sweet corn fritter with chipotle cream sauce and tiny glass of gazpacho which had been strained until it was colorless.

We were given the choice of hard french rolls or slices of whole grain bread, as the cutlery was readied for the first course. Robert and I had both chosen the Foie Gras Brulee with slow baked strawberries and balsamic vinegar.

Just like the classic dessert, there was a hard caramelized crust to crack. Underneath there was a beautifully light-textured foie and the baked strawberries on a base of brioche. The sweet, jammy flavor of the berries was the dominant one for me, and it played nicely with the richness of the foie gras.

Pat's choice was Sea Trout Sashimi draped in trout eggs, lemon, dill and horseradish. The horseradish grated over top drew you in with its pungent aroma. It was an insprired combination of fresh, sharp and bright flavors, colors and aromas: a pale yellow lemon foam in the bottom of the bowl, against the orange of the sea trout, topped with the trout eggs, all set off by the vibrant green of the dill pesto.

Here's Robert's second course: Young Garlic Soup with thyme. It was served with sautéed frog legs on the side which he was invited to dip into the soup, which was smooth with a mild garlic flavor. They even brought him a finger bowl, complete with rose petals, after this dish.

Goat Cheese Gnocchi topped with caramelized baby artichoke and parsley was my next course. The "gnocchi" were lumps of pure goat cheese which were almost too rich. This wasn't quite balanced out by the tanginess of the cheese or the accompaniments. Perhaps we could have borrowed some of the sweetness from the previous dish!

Next, Patrick enjoyed Red Snapper Crusted with nuts and seeds with sweet and sour jus. He loved the crunch of the crust, and I was just fascinated by the perfect balance between sweet and sour in the sauce. Pat says he's never eaten at a restaurant like this, but he sure did a great job of ordering.

Robert's last course was Parmesan Crusted Confit Legs of chicken, Potato Puree and Lemon Butter, Jean Georges' version of comfort food. The parmesan flavor was a a great, salty addition that stuck in my mind.

When they brought my Roasted Sweetbreads and Fragrant Pickled Peach with wild arugula & pink peppercorn, I felt a twinge of sadness. I knew the meal was drawing to an end. The dish lifted my spirits, however, as I constructed the perfect bite with a bit of sweetbread, a chunk of pickled peach and a leaf of arugula.

The care that had gone into selecting each ingredient was obvious, and this dish achieved a balance of flavors which my earlier choices missed.

The lightly pickled peaches struck me as quite creative, and you know what will be going on in my kitchen next year when peach season rolls around. Their fruity acidity cut through the natural richness of the sweetbread, while the arugula contributed a lively pepperiness. Even though I generally prefer sweetbreads grilled and crunchier, this was a dish I really savored.

But wait! Of course, at this point we were brought the dessert menu. How could be resist? At Jean Georges, you chose a flavor theme for dessert and you a brought a plate of sweet treats based on that theme.

I chose Summer, accompanied by a glass of effervesant Moscato d'Asti. A delightful pairing with my almond and peach confection, plum-shiso sorbet and fresh blueberry soda. It must have been the shiso gave the sorbet a nice savory edge.

Patrick's Cherry dessert, paired with a 20 year Fonseca Port, featured a cherry tart and cherry coupe with chocolate and ice cream. (It must have been good because he devoured it before I got much of a taste.)

Robert had the same port with his Chocolate tasting plate. On the right in the photo above is the famous molten chocolate cake(!), with vanilla bean ice cream center, and on the left a fanciful concoction of chocolate noodles in a peppermint soup.

The meal was rounded out with adorable mini peanut butter and jelly macarons and chocolates in assorted flavors. (My favorite was the bergamot.) This was a charming offering, and I wish I had taken a photo.

The splurge was completley worth it, even a good value for NYC. Each dish was thoughtfully prepared and beautifully presented. The service was attentive and gracious throughout. I appreciated the fact that they made our wine last throughout the meal. It was an utterly enchanting experience that I love reliving in my mind.

Arrival in the Finger Lakes

2008-06-24T16:00:00.000-04:00

My dad and I drove up through Pennsylvania. It took longer than expected because we got lost detouring through Scranton. We'll take a different route next time.We got to the farm just in time to see Andrew milk his four Jersey cows.

Then we went to dinner at Paul's house. He owns the cabin I'm staying in. I also met John, who owns one of the local wineries. He had brought along his Gewertztraminer and Pinot Noir. We sampled these wines with a chunk of Andrew's Caerphilly sitting on Paul's deck overlooking Lake Seneca, followed by some yummy lasagne. I think I'm gonna like it here.

Easter on Petherton Road

2007-05-24T08:40:00.002-04:00

Welcome me to the cat people club...

2006-09-04T12:57:00.000-04:00

I just got the okay from my landlady, so now I can officially start looking for a cat to adopt. I have been thinking about this for a while now. I am very happy with this decision, so now I have to find the right kitty.

I went to a shelter yesterday but all they had left was a pair, Samson & Delilah. If I had adopted them I would have renamed them Leo & Lucille since I am engrossed in And The Dead Shall Rise, but all this is beside the point. I have to make sure I can handle one before I think about having two. They advised me to wait two weeks before coming back, which gives me time to check out some other shelters.

I have been having so much fun with Max lately, that I think I'd really like a kitten. I know they are more work, but it'll also be more fun, right?

Appreciate any thoughts or advice. Promise to update!!! :)

Tooting Bec

2006-06-12T17:37:00.000-04:00

My friend Sianne throws the best house parties in London. Here are some shots from her Birthday Barbeque Bash on Saturday. The fancy dress theme was inspired by the current World Cup mania.

The lovely birthday girl, representing Brasil.

Posh? Is that you?

Windsor, Stonehenge & Bath

2006-05-29T16:11:00.000-04:00

Sunday, May 28
Claresta has been trying to organise a trip to Stonehenge for ages, and yesterday we finally went. We got a great deal on a group tour through lastminute.com, so we got up early to meet at Victoria Station and get on the coach. Our tour guide was a total card named Magnus, and I'm very sorry I don't have a picture of him to share.

Our first stop was Windsor Castle.

This is apparently the favourite residence of HRH Queen Elizabeth II (not to be confused with the others in my life who claim the same title). We were quickly informed that she was at Buckingham Palace in London this weekend. It doesn't seem quite right for a Queen to play favourites. It's like when Sondheim walked out of Side Show, but I digress...

We were quite lucky with the weather yesterday, and last week's rain (which I luckily missed) made the English countryside amazingly lush. At the castle, we toured the state apartments, but the coolest thing we saw had to have been Queen Mary's Doll House. It's amazingly detailed mansion which we were told had running water and everything!

This kid is life-sized, but must have been about 12.

After picking up a cup of coffee and a toasted Club at Eat (yum) we got back on the bus and were off to Stonehenge.

Well, we made it!

As you can tell, it was windy on the Salisbury plains.

No matter-- Claresta was delighted. It was everything she had hoped it would be. I never expected to be back at Stonehenge. I must have been about 11 when I went with my family. It really is an mystifying, awe-inspiring sight.

Next stop: Bath.
This is an absolutely charming city. I hope that get to spend a quiet weekend wandering there sometime and truly get to explore it. On Sunday our visit focused on the Roman Baths. Fascinating.

But don't drink the water.

Wilkommen

2006-05-29T14:31:00.000-04:00

To compliment and reinforce my goal to travel more, I have created this blog to post photos and anecdotes about my adventures in London and beyond. I will enjoy sharing my stories, and equally enjoy reading your comments and travel recommendations.

I leave you now with a photo from beautiful Trinidad, California from about this time last year.
Who would have thought?